Showing posts with label Life. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Life. Show all posts

Saturday, May 7, 2016

Eldoret

Something that I’ve struggled with since being in Kenya is the blatant distinction between white and black. As has been apparent in many posts, I very much dislike having my attention drawn by someone shouting out “mzungu!” and when receiving no response, changing it to “white lady!” This past week however, I experienced many things which finally gave me an inkling of understanding about the distinction between socioeconomic class, which as an outsider, hadn’t seemed as obvious to me. After a comment made by my mom about how she expected things to be so much less expensive in Kenya, I realized how right she was. Most of the items that I’ve purchased have been from places like Nakumatt, which I previously referred to as the equivalent of Walmart. I’ve since learned however that socially, Nakumatt is perceived as many perceive Target in America, a classier, more expensive version of the same thing. Otherwhys, I buy things on the street where I’m perceived as deserving a higher price than my equal Kenyan counterpart because of my foreignness.
In reality though, things that an average Kenyan buys at an average price, are much more what my mother had expected. With some variation, a matatu (kenyan bus) is 30 ksh (30 cents), a bag of 4 fresh avocados is 80 ksh (80 cents), a coke in a glass bottle 35 ksh (35 cents), etc. -you get the picture, extraordinarily reasonable compared to American prices for comparable items.
I am not at all disputing the abject poverty that many Kenyans live in, nor am I disputing that those who are well off do not still struggle because of the economy. But what I’ve come to realize is that in America, most people make a relatively steady income, even those who don’t work, thanks to the infrastructures that we’ve set up. This thought process relates back to my experiences this past week in which I had the opportunity to shadow some street health care workers who are helping to facilitate the OSCAR research. OSCAR stands for Orphaned and Separated Children Assessment Related to their health and well-being.
Money is not something that most people like to talk about, but here I’m about to. Like most college educated students, my family and I are in a significant amount of debt because of it. Does this mean that I won’t buy a new pair of shoes or go out to dinner with the small amount of savings that I have? No. Should it? Maybe. But the point is that I’m riding on the last bit of that savings now to carry me through the rest of the semester. It took three years of working part time while in school to earn enough money to buy my plane ticket to Kenya. So when someone is following me along my entire walk home (especially prevalent during my OSCAR outreach) requesting that I fund their trip to America as if because I’m white, I inherently have that money, it gets very frustrating.
At the time, I was feeling as though I was being perceived by the community as this entitled girl who was too selfish to share the wealth instead of a hardworking girl who is just trying to learn what I can to be able to make a difference in the world someday. From my perspective, what distinguishes the west from developing countries is not so much having physical money, but rather having the opportunity to earn in. Although we struggle with unemployment in America as well, I feel that there are more opportunities to work than in Kenya. In my opinion therefore foreign aid to countries should not come in the sense of money, but rather in the sense of helping local people start their own companies, resulting in opportunities for others to become employees, etc. That is one thing that Kenya has going for them as one of the fastest growing economies-the entrepreneurship is through the roof. So many people start so many amazing businesses. Although it may be because they don’t have any other choice, many of these businesses are thriving. The variety of businesses range from selling clothes second hand on the street, to companies situated in buildings throughout the central business district of Nairobi, accessed through online marketing and spread by word of mouth.
What really motivated this post however, was when I was told that I could not walk home, and if I needed money for a taxi, well “it was only 3 dollars, so if I didn’t have it, anyone in the room could give it to me” (in a room full of very well off Americans). And I’ve realized that this is why the perception of us is as it is here in Kenya. 300 ksh is a lot to spend on a taxi for such a short distance, and money is far from expendable. For a Kenyan family, those 300 ksh could be the difference between someone being able to afford feeding their family for dinner for an entire week, or not. Yet to these Americans, it was only* three dollars. It put me in such a position where I felt embarrassed for feeling like that was a lot to go literally down the street, and I can only imagine how others feel when foreigners can appear so demeaning. It’s no wonder that people expect us to just give them money when this is the perception that many literally hand over to them. In terms of something larger than the topic of money (although that is certainly a large topic), it’s important to keep this in mind when interacting with any set of diverse peoples. Whether from the same culture or community, there is frequently a less visible difference in many other aspects of people's’ lives.
For these reasons, and for several others, one should never assume anything about another. The Americans that I associated with assumed that I would have enough money to be able to take a taxi, and Kenyans live in a constant state of assuming that I have extra money laying around to hand out. As my dad always says though, assuming only makes an ass out of you and of I, and I have to second that. Without assumptions about others, the world would be filled with less judgement and more communal understanding and societal progress.
With all of this being said however, I understand how sensitive of a subject money is and I hope that I have not approached it too obnoxiously. I am conscientious of the fact that everything I say comes with the privilege of being able to say so. By having enough money to travel, even for studies, I have more money than many Kenyans. Despite how positive my intentions in studying abroad may be, that doesn’t change the way that I appear. My perspective on this matter is obviously directly correlated to the fact that I am a white American, and regardless of how my opinion on the matter changes throughout my life, that will always be the fact. Although sometimes difficult to cope with, because I’ve always been one to find myself uncomfortable when sitting in a room full of white people, I know that in society, it doesn’t matter how I feel on the inside, rather how others from the outside perceive me. That however, is a commentary for another day. I think that for now, this is enough to soak in.
Siku njema!
Beca

Sunday, February 7, 2016

Road Infrastructure

Life is all about the roads we decide to take. Are they gravely and bumpy or smooth sailing? When we come to forks, which direction do we chose to go in? How does whatever path we chose affect the rest of our lives? Some might say that the metaphor of life being a journey in which we all must travel is cliche, but it's referred to as such for valid reasons! I will take this opportunity to tell you about the array of roads I ventured on this week.
Being the first week of classes, I spent a lot of time getting to know my surroundings. For starters, driving into the Central Business District (CBD) of Nairobi to the United Kenyan Club (UKC), which is where I attend classes Monday-Thursday, takes about 30 minutes. The ride is relatively smooth and before long, I'm in my History of Modern Kenya and Gender Studies classes. For lunch one day, my friends and I set out to find Java (an American style cuisine). Although there are a few street lights throughout the CBD, they might as well not exist. For about 3 red light cycles, I watched the cars zoom right through them without a care in the world for the pedestrians waiting to cross. I couldn't help comparing it in my mind to New York City where the pedestrians truly own the road. That is not the case here at all. There was nothing we could do except wait for literally all of the cars to pass through all of our turns to walk until there were no cars left. Mind you there were at least 20 people waiting to cross, but no one took the initiative to forge a path for the legitimate fear of being run over. To make the situation even better, there are police waiting anxiously to capture people jay-walking. I say capture because best-case scenario, you bribe the police officer to let you go, worst-you sit in jail for a day waiting for trial, and then ultimately get fined 500 Ksh (Kenyan shillings) ($5.00).
After classes are finished for the day, we head back to our compound, which is in the outskirts of Nairobi in a neighborhood called Karen. This trip takes about an hour and a half due to the extensive amount of traffic leaving the city at 4:30 pm. Crazily enough, it would take twice as long without Njou (our driver) who asserts himself into the flow of cars quite seamlessly. To say that driving in Kenya is aggressive would be an understatement. There are few stop signs (and when there are, they're ignored), many roundabouts, and most places do not have lines on the roads. Now this could be an example of underdevelopment, but I don't see it that way. Personally, I think it's amazing that people are able to travel on the roads and maintain some semblance of structure without heavily enforced traffic laws. Besides the ban on jay-walking of course.
This week, after finishing my classes one day, I took a trip into town with my friend Sarah to go to Naukumat, the local equivalent to Walmart. The store carries everything from washing machines and refrigerators to nail polish and Lays potato chips. Unlike at Walmart however, the security guards at this store actually waved a wand over me and checked inside my bag, prior to letting me enter, as all the security guards in front of large stores and banks do in Nairobi. The walk into town took about 45 minutes, and it was all downhill.  Literally. The trip back up however, called for a taxi as I had purchased too many things to try carrying back up. (Aka, nail polish and chips).
This weekend, Saint Lawrence University (SLU) offered an optional trip to Mount Longonot, which obviously everybody was eager to partake in! This drive there was about 3 hours long, and provided for ample time to catch up on all the latest American Hits (Thanks Spotify)! I also learned that sometimes when there's an accident in front of you stopping traffic, the appropriate response is to drive off of the road to get around it. A two lane highway very quickly became a four lane highway when on either side people drove down a hill onto the grass below. Another interesting component of highways is that there are random speed-bumps that are important to look out for.
Now this wouldn't be a complete blog post without an account of a crazy hike I partook in. After having just made it to the top of the 9,108 ft volcano, my friend Monica and I began our descent back down. It was very steep and very dusty, and a man kept stumbling into me. I went to the side so that he could pass, thinking he was simply rude and in a hurry to get down, or perhaps he was drunk (as many people had been drinking on the top of the rim), but his friends grabbed onto him, telling him he wasn't steady enough to descend and he needed to sit down. Monica and I went down as fast as we could, hoping to avoid having him behind as again. As we were running down a less steep portion, a man carrying a stretcher passed us hastily, making the noise of an ambulance. We spoke about how highly impractical it was to carry that stretcher up because the hike took over 3 hours and it would be nearly impossible to carry someone down on a stretcher with as steep as the mountain is.
As I write this post however, it seems unimaginable to not acknowledge that as we were arriving at the bottom of the mountain, a man from Nairobi was passing away at the top due to complications with his breathing, which I came to know as I was writing this post. The following news article provides a more in-depth account of the issues that occurred in terms of the Kenya Wildlife Service Rangers' response
http://www.the-star.co.ke/news/2016/02/07/nairobi-businessman-dies-during-mt-longonot-hike_c1290570 I thought that it was important to include this because it touches upon the lack of a helicopter response, and further in the comments section, people's opinions on the matter. Most notably: "if it had been a white man, a helicopter would have been found."
Although I originally began this post with the intent of portraying Kenyan road infrastructure in a life lesson kind of way, deeper meaning has been found with the loss of a life because of the lack of infrastructure within the wildlife service. I cannot be certain that the man stumbling into me was the same man who lost his life yesterday, but I can be certain that prior to making assumptions, it's vitally important to be present in the moment and make informed decisions. If I hadn't been clouded by being annoyed, and if Monica and I had stopped to see that everything was okay, who knows that help couldn't have been sent sooner because who knows how long his friends waited to ask for it. At the time, I didn't think anything of it, and even now I'm not certain what I would have done if confronted with the situation again, but I know that life is all about the roads we decide to take, and I will try to be more cognizant of the one's I'm choosing.

Beca